Fall/Winter 2016-2017 Collection

Boris Bidjan Saberi’s Fall Winter 16-17 collection leads the designer’s in uences into an in- depth study of tailoring. Falling in line with the brand’s perennial exploration of military in uences, the collection pays homage to the high functionality of the paratrooper’s uniforms and equipment.
Traditional parachute and sky-diving gear are deconstructed and translated into an innovative wardrobe.As the gravitational pull would have transformed the silhouettes of this airborne brigade, Saberi’s exploration of volumes shake up the contemporary menswear mold yet again.
Outlines create a sense of verticality, which at rst glance lend a minimal feel to the collec- tion, bringing a strong focus to pattern and details.
Saberi’s background in streetwear is re ected in the intricate construction of a retractable system of linings found throughout the collection.
Hidden shoulder straps, seemingly inspired by the safety harnesses of parachutists, adorn tailored coats and parkas, accentuating length and offering further experimentation with layers.
A range of transparent organzas and technical fabrics reveal the inner structure of the gar- ments along with thermo-sealed seams, which underline Saberi’s extreme attention to detail in his craft, alongside a taste for new technology.
Airy fabrics go hand in hand with Saberi’s trademark house-tanned skins. Horse, kangaroo, spring- bok and yak leathers are used throughout the collection. Following the utilitarian themes of the season, the designer offers an innovative take on modular waist packs crafted from these leathers.
Coats lined in merino shearling wool, pony skin jackets, and oversized drop crotch trousers strengthen the organic feel of the collection and highlight the contrasting weights of the fabrics used.
An achromatic palette of dirty whites, grays and blacks provide the background to display the designer’s use of experimental nishes. A color extraction process gives garbadines, cut into paratrooper overalls and carpenter jackets, a cloudy sky-like camou age effect, an unexpected treatment that completes the garment-dyed one of a kind pieces, a signature of the house.
The skydiver’s silhouettes of Saberi’s AW16 collection are complemented by a set of hand- crafted sunglasses, the result of a close collaboration with the Werkstatt München.Two variations of frames designed and hand crafted entirely in sterling silver were created utilizing the jewelry house’s accomplished craftsmanship and knowledge.